When I think about pairing with creamy dishes, I usually steer clear of red wines. For me, the red and black fruits, and full-bodied mouth feel of a big red is a taste collision with cream. One of those toothpaste and orange juice things that makes me say Yuk. I went straight to white wine here, something that might also bring some creaminess to go with the round, rich mouth-filling flavor of the soup. I would definitely consider a Chardonnay for this dish – one that’s undergone Malolactic fermentation to have that creamy flavor. Or a white that’s had time on the lees – aka – yeast to give it a bit more body, while also offering some acidity and tartness to provide a counterpoint to the soup’s meatiness and the bitterness from the kale. So a white Bordeaux that’s got a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon would also be a good call.
But practicality trumped both of these for me. We had some sparkling wine – in this case Champagne – available to us from a brunch we had earlier in the day and it was a winner to pair with the soup. Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Reserve has some citrus and pear flavors that shine through the soup, while also offering some creaminess and nice biscuit/pastry flavors that cozy up to the soup’s cream. The bubbles, however, are what make this combination shine. That crispness and carbonation keep your tongue engaged, helping you avoid that coated-tongue feeling you can get after a rich dairy dish. Every sip wipes away the creaminess and invites you to taste the soup again and again. The warm soup and chilled wine offer a delightful back and forth that take the meal from OK to Oh Yeah!
Feuillatte is an excellent value. The more famous Champagne houses often charge up to twice as much for bubbly of similar quality. At $30-35/bottle Nicolas Feuillatte isn’t cheap, but for genuine Champagne (as opposed to Prosecco, Cava or other sparkling wine) it’s a nice value. And by the way, I think a nice Prosecco or Cava would be a great choice here, too if you want something much more affordable. Make sure it’s a Brut sparkling wine. Too sweet and it won’t work as well with the soup. Dry sparkling wines will generally offer some sort of Apple or Pear or Citrus character, and all will have the bubbles. I’d suggest looking for one that has that pastry/brioche kind of character to get that trifecta of flavors that makes a sublime pairing.